KEROSENE COOKERS or
STOVES
In an ideal world, everyone would
have a kerosene stove. I consider a
kerosene kitchen stove to be central to the
concept of being self-reliant. Every
year the electric power goes out for almost
everyone during storms or hurricanes.
Without the ability to cook and heat a home,
many people evacuate to a motel - and
spend more per day than the cost of a
kerosene stove! Absurd, but it
happens almost every day somewhere in the
country. And what about a manufactured
event, like the avian flu? Government
plans already on the books call for people to
be quarantined in their homes. Smart
people will want to self-quarantine to
avoid unnecessary exposure to
pathogens. But what is to stop
terrorists from then knocking down an
electric transmission tower in a remote
area? Given that the electrical grid is
tied together, an entire region would lose
power. And who would break quarantine
to fix that problem? Without a kerosene
stove for cooking and a little heat, millions
of people could suffer terribly. Many
would be forced to go to a shelter, a crowded
shelter, and thereby almost ensure they would
catch what the least resistant person in the
shelter was spreading about. No
thanks.
At right is a photo of my
kerosene stove kitchen circa
1998. On the left edge you can
barely see my Butterfly #2418 double
burner. Under the cooking stand in the
middle is a Butterfly #2628. The
right hand stove is an Alpaca, long
since replaced by a more efficient
Butterfly stove.
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Generally speaking, there are two
types of kerosene stoves - the wick type and
the the pressure stove. Wick stove can
be either multiple small wicks, a single wick
standing on its edge (gravity flow Butterfly
design), or take a standard heater-type
circular wick. I have
purchased and used most of them, including
with the Korean made Alpaca, the Indonesian
made Butterfly (models 2457, 2628, 2413 and
2418), and various pressure stoves such as
the
Butterfly #2412. At one time
I even imported Premier stoves from India to
supply the North American market, so I have
had a lot of experience with kerosene
stoves.
WICK STOVES
The
Butterfly #2413, #2416, #2417 and #2418
models are extremely unique, using a sturdy
wick standing on it's edge, with gravity flow
from a glass reservoir flowing through a
simple cone shaped shut off valve to control
the amount of fuel flowing to the wick.
These are the same style of stoves in
widespread use in rural American before WW
II, then called "wickless" stoves.
Wicks last years, but you should have spares.
The Butterfly multi-strand stoves use what is
essentially a cotton mop strand as a wick,
the number of wicks being used depending on
the heat output. When the top of the
wicks becomes cakes with carbon, it is easy
to pull them up a little, snip off the top
edge with scissors, and you have a brand new
burning surface.
For more
information, see Butterfly #2418 Operating
Instructions.
WHICH STOVES DO I
USE?
For the past eight years I have had a
#2418 double burner set up on a sun porch, all ready to
use when the electricity goes out. I have had
a #2457 for many years, as it holds the #2421 Butterfly
oven perfectly. That leaves me with two burners on
the #2418 for cooking meals, while the single burner #2457
is off to one side, busy baking bread. I gave
my mother a #2418 single burner about 8 years ago, and she
still has it and uses it whenever the electricity goes
out. I gave my daughter-in-law a Butterfly #2628
about seven years ago, and she has used it whenever the
electricity is out. I gave them those stoves because
they are reliable and will work perfectly even when pulled
out of long-term storage during an emergency.
My newest stoves are the
Butterfly #2487, 16 wick stove (right),
and the Butterfly #2698, 22 wick stove
(far right). The #2487 is a good
compromise stove and easy to light. The
#2698 is by far the best stove I have
ever used for heavy duty canning and
baking, boiling water, etc, as it
produces 14,000 BTU/hr. The #2698
is strong enough to easily hold a
waterbath canner!
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Butterfly #2487
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Butterfly #2698
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Reviews of all of these stoves are at
the links below.
All
kerosene cookers and heaters will smoke and
smell a little when first lighted, as the
burner unit needs to heat up to provide
maximum efficient. Just open some windows for
a few minutes and the air clears quickly.
Likewise, when you turn off the unit, it
smells a tad bit, and opened windows solve
that problem. DO NOT blow out a kerosene
cooker when you are through using it: turn
down the wick and let it burn out by itself,
which takes a few minutes. The burner unit
contains unburned hydrocarbons (kerosene),
and if it cools down naturally it burns them
up with few fumes. For more
information on fuels used in kerosene stoves,
read my
kerosene fuel primer.
Kerosene
pressure stoves such as the Butterfly #2412 share common
features with gasoline torches of old -- the generator is
preheated by burning alcohol in a cup, then the stove is
lit. Unlike the silent operation of a wick type
stove, the pressure stoves do produce quite a bit of noise
when in use. Except for the pressure pump, pressure stoves
have no moving parts, are made of solid brass for years of
service, and will burn virtually anything that pours --
but only kerosene or Low Odor Mineral Spirits should be
used indoors because they produce almost no carbon
monoxide.
For emergency use, a kerosene pressure
stove has even more advantages.
The
Butterfly #2412 has the unique advantage of being a
"take apart" design - even the fuel tank has a cap which
is stored on the pump handle, making the Butterfly #2412 a
fantastic stove for emergency use if traveling.
I know one fellow who used a Butterfly #2412 on his sail
boat for over a decade without any problem...he chose this
stove because it would burn any fuel he was likely to
encounter anywhere. I keep one stored in my motor
home at all times. For daily use, however, I prefer
the silent Butterfly wick stoves, but they require
absolutely clean, pure 1K kerosene to burn clean.
The Butterfly #2412 pressure stove can cleanly burn red
dye kerosene and even diesel.
Pressure stoves I use for comparison
testing. |
Setting Up A Butterfly Multi-Wick Stove includes
instructions that apply only to multi wick
stoves such as the Butterfly #2457 and #2628,
not the gravity flow Butterfly stoves such as
the #2413 and #2418.
VERY
UNIQUE
Special and
unique Instruction Manual
for 1927 Ward's Windsor Kerosene range,
courtesy of New England Gardener. This is a 5.86 MB
.pdf download!
BUILD A SUPPORT STAND FOR YOUR
STOVE
None
of the kerosene stoves are sturdy enough, in
my opinion, to support heavy loads like a
full pressure cooker or water bath
canner. What portable stove by any
manufacturer is designed to hold a 16" wide
pot weighing over 35 pounds? That large
a canner would not even fit on a Coleman gas
stove! It is relatively easy to
build a cooking stand for a single burner
stove to support any size or weight of pot or
pan. The double burner Butterfly #2418 is an
exception -- it is intended for daily use for
years with normal size pots and pans, but is
a large stove and quite sturdy when assembled
properly.
This
is really basic, straightforward building,
like an erector set from years gone by, and
requires few tools. A properly maintained
kerosene cooker with a strong support stand
to relieve it of any strain should last for
decades of constant use.
USING
A KEROSENE COOKER AS A
HEATER
Kerosene cookers can be used as an
emergency heat source. I have used the
Alpaca, Butterfly, Premier Sr. and Swastik
stoves as heaters in my greenhouse on
extremely cold winter days. And yes, I have
used them in the house for heating as well.
The burner unit on a cooker lacks a flame
plate on top, as do kerosene heaters: the
flame is designed to impact a solid surface
directly at the cooking surface. I use an 8"
x 8" x 3 5/8" concrete block (or a round
steel plate) on top of the units when using
them for heating. The flame is adjusted to a
bright blue, with no yellow showing, and the
concrete block acts as a heat sink,
moderating and dissipating the heat. Don't
laugh -- it works.
The
Alpaca needs to be burned at nearly maximum
heat output, however, or the fiberglass wick
will foul with tar balls and burn poorly. In
fact, I've had them literally go out when
used for extended periods of time as heaters
because of tar ball buildup on the wicks.
Then the tar balls need to be crunched with a
pair of smooth, paddle bladed pliers just so
the wick can retract! I don't like the
Alpaca.... With a multi-wick stove like
the Butterfly, you can simply snip off the
top of the wicks, pull them up a little, and
have a fresh surface to burn. You don't do
that with an expensive Alpaca
wick!
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Butterfly #2457 on left
with a concrete block.
Butterfly #2628 in
center holding a 1/4" steel
plate.
Alpaca on right
heating a diffuser plate.
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It
would be a mistake to think that any kerosene
stove can equal the efficiency of a "pure"
kerosene heater for heating, as they cannot
do so, period. But they do provide heat and
can be used for that purpose in an emergency.
Let us assume that the electric power is out,
it is winter, and you do not want to attract
attention to yourself by using a wood stove
and putting up smoke signals, and you have a
kerosene cooker. At a maximum of 8,500 BTU
output, the cooker is not going to heat an
entire home, but it will heat a large room
well enough to keep it comfortable. I would
not recommend sleeping with a cooker going
simply because they are not as safe and
efficient as a heater, but if the choice is
freezing to death, well....be very careful,
have the stove well away from any bedding,
curtains or combustible materials, on a firm
base (not sitting on a rug),
etc.
There
is, in fact, a safer way to use a kerosene
cook stove as a heater, and that involved the
use of a drip pan or spill tray under the
stove. All kerosene heaters have a drip
pan, so it only makes sense to extend that
safety factor to kerosene stoves. Blitz makes
an 11 inch wide galvanized metal "Pet Food
Tray" with a 2" raised lip which is perfect
for use under a kerosene stove. Wal Mart
sells them for less than $4.00, which is very
inexpensive insurance.
As
with any appliance that uses oxygen in the
process of combustion, be sure to have
several windows cracked an inch or so to
provide adequate
ventilation.
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Related
subjects:
Kerosene
heaters:
Kerosene Stoves, Lanterns and
Ovens:
Kerosene, The
Fuel, and Storage Tanks