SITE
INDEX
QUICKENING
NEWS
PREPARATIONS
1.
Food
2.
Manna
Meals
3.
Water
4.
Sanitation
5.
Medical,
health
6.
Kerosene heaters and cookers
7.
Lighting
8. Wood
cooking and heating
9. Communi-cations
10. Essential
Tools
11. Home
built items
12.
Electrical; generators
and power
13. War
preparedness
14.
Gardening
SITE
INDEX
Miles Stair's SURVIVAL
SHOP
HOME
RADIATION
INDEX & JET STREAM
PROPHECY
COMMENTARY
BY MILES
BOOKLETS
BY MILES
GUEST
SUBMISSIONS
PHOTO
INDEX
LINKS
SITE
INDEX
Miles Stair's
SURVIVAL
SHOP
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BUTTERFLY #2418
DOUBLE BURNER STOVE
(The operating instructions
apply to all of the Butterfly gravity flow
stoves: #2413, #2416, #2417, #2418,
etc.)
For those living in a safe location,
the best kerosene cook stove I have used is the
Butterfly #2418 double burner stove. This stove is
large, measuring approximately 30 inches long, 12
inches wide and a foot high, and weighs about 14
pounds. This size and weight makes the #2418 extremely
stable in use, and the two burners allow meals to be
easily cooked. You can even cook on one burner while
using the oven over the other burner. This is a
saturated wick design stove, which means the fuel is
fed to the wick through a valve, and it is the valve
which controls the flow of fuel, and therefore the
flame height or BTU output. That means this stove is
designed to be used on a level counter top, not
perched among rocks beside a tent. Yes, you can move
the #2418, but it was designed for everyday use in a
fixed location rather than as a camping or portable
stove. In the Philippines and Indonesia, in fact
throughout most of the Far East and Southeast Asia,
this is the stove of choice for every day use,
if they can afford it. The alternative is to
cook with twigs under a grate...rather primitive at
best.
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[Wicks for Butterfly gravity flow
stoves are available at
The Wick Shop.]
Notice that the glass fuel tank fits
between the burners into a protected hole in the heavy
top plate. The "saturated wick" image shows the fixed
wick design and the bottom of the catalytic converter:
the wick does not raise or lower to adjust the
flame height as is the case with every other wick stove
or heater I have ever seen. With the #2418, fuel flow
or volume determines the amount of heat output, and
that is controlled by minor turning of the red
handle. To use the Butterfly #2418,
the fuel tank is filled, then inverted and lowered by
the wire handle into a receptacle. The fuel tank cap
has a protruding pin held open by a spring, and when
the tank is in position, the pin is pushed up and fuel
can flow into the tube assembly via gravity. Opening
the red valve under the burner allows fuel to flow to
the wick, which then becomes saturated with fuel in
about a minute or two. The catalytic converter unit is
then raised and the wick touched with a match, and the
top edge of the wick burns the fuel. At first the flame
is a bit high, a result of the catalytic converter unit
not being up to operating temperature and the saturated
nature of the wick.
Controlling the height of the
flame is done by closing the valve, then opening it
up about 1/8th of a turn. Only slight turning of the
red knob is necessary to adjust the heat output, but
remember that there is already fuel in the wick, so
adjustments usually take about 20 to 30 seconds to
become effective. Moral of the story: be patient when
adjusting the flame height, and you will soon become
accustomed to its operation. You will be rewarded with
totally silent operation, even and steady heat, and
absolutely reliable operation. To turn off the
Butterfly #2418 pressure stove, simply turn off the
flow of fuel by gently turning the red knob to
the right until it stops. There is no need to twist
hard on the red knob and try to damage the needle valve
at its bottom. The fuel flow will be stopped by gently
turning the valve closed, and in a minute or so the
residual fuel will be consumed and the stove will go
out.
The fuel reservoir on the
Butterfly #2418 Pressure Stove holds 1.85 quarts,
and burn time is approximately 12.5 hours per burner.
Using both burners reduces the refill time to
approximately 6 hours, which is more than adequate for
3 or 4 days of use even when using the oven to bake
bread, for example. A gallon of kerosene should be
sufficient for a week of cooking and baking normal,
regular "made from scratch" meals.
The wick for the Butterfly
#2418 is approximately 10 " by 7/8". This special
wick fits down into a thin slot and the top edge only
is what supports the flame: the wick itself does not
burn, of course. How long will a wick last? In Asia,
many users report that wicks can last up to a decade,
but they are experienced users. I can guarantee you
that your first wick won t last that long...figure 6
months of every day use for the first wick. After you
gain expertise, wicks will last longer. The trick is to
never light the wick before it has become saturated
with fuel, and when the stove is turned off, to let the
flame die out on its own. Once one "side" of a wick has
become ragged after long use, turn it upside down and
start all over with a new burning edge!
ASSEMBLY
HINTS [Refer to the
illustration above for details of how the pieces fit
together.]
The Butterfly #2418 dual burner
stove comes unassembled. All you need for assembly is a
flat bladed screwdriver and a 9 mm socket or wrench, or
a small crescent wrench. The back and bottom are one
piece. Begin by first placing the long tube with
fittings for the wicks and tanks (part #808A) on the
bottom, with the brackets over the ends, line up the
holes, then fasten finger tight only: the unit will be
aligned and tightened once assembly is complete.
Assembly can easily take 3 hours, so be patient.
Next affix the end
pieces: notice they are notched at the bottom. The top
plate (part #1002a) is attached next, and when it is
tightened up the unit becomes square and straight. Then
fit the two flat support braces inside the stove: see
the illustration above. The screw flanges are placed
facing inward toward the tank, and the narrowest part
of the cutout for the tube assembly is placed toward
the front (there is a raised section of the base to
guide you in this operation just match up the width
of the flange with the base).
Now it is time to
assemble the tank. Very carefully bend the top of the
wire loops inward, then spring the wire handle loops
through the holes in the band projection. Work slowly
and carefully don t break the glass.
Now put the fuel tank
(part #101) down through the center hole in the top
plate until it mates with the receptacle. It won t fit
evenly, which is why you left the bracket screws loose.
Move the bracket forward or backward until the glass
reservoir fits squarely on its base and is centered in
the access hole on the top plate of the stove, then
tighten the two bolts and nuts on each side of part
#808A, and tighten all nuts and bolts on the stove.
Next put the red knobbed fuel flow needle valves (part
#707) into their tubes, and tighten very
gently.
Finally, put the
wicks on edge (part #606) into their slots, with the
slight opening toward the front (see illustration
above), making sure the wicks are seated uniformity at
the bottom of their slots.
Lower the catalytic
converter (part #505) down over the wicks and wiggle
until it is centered, then put the cooking bracket
(part #303) on the top plate (match up the 4 holes in
the top plate), and you are ready to put fuel into the
tank and use the stove!
IMPORTANT: Open the
fuel control valve and let the wick become fully
saturated before lighting - every time!Just
opening the valve for a couple of minutes before use
should extend your wick life by a factor of
years.
Related subjects:
Kerosene
Stoves, Lanterns and Ovens:
Kerosene heaters:
Kerosene, The Fuel, and Storage
Tanks
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