Kerosene heaters and cookers
cooking and heating
Miles Stair's SURVIVAL
INDEX & JET STREAM
Miles Stair's SURVIVAL
Tips and Tricks
respected (that would be non-government) economist now
predicting a major economic crash which could be an overnight
or even intraday event, having a Bug Out Bag in every vehicle
has considerable logic. Someone may only commute 10
miles to work, but in many cases that would be via freeways
through less-than-desirable areas where tribal behavior is
only one delayed EBT card failure from full scale warfare.
Stuff Army" (FSA) already takes half of what working people
earn. In a societal breakdown they would want EVERYTHING you
have - RIGHT THEN. The FSA is more brutal than you are,
they have no qualms about using maximum violence to get what
they want, and they work in concert, in groups, that can
easily overpower the lone straggler simply trying to get home.
Liberals who believe otherwise are simply Darwin Award
Candidates in the making and will be referred to in the
history of our times as ''victims.''
The areas where
the FSA dominate must be avoided at all costs! And that
would most probably mean a long detour around their areas.
Hence, a BOB in every vehicle and even in a locker at work
would be highly advisable. Given the greatly diminished
economy our glorious leaders have bestowed upon us, many
families now must have at least two adults working and
children old enough to work often have part-time jobs or must
drive to school. That means multiple BOB's!
BOB's can be expensive! So, herewith are some simple,
inexpensive tips and tricks on assembling cheap but worthwhile
BOB's. The items listed are decidedly not ideal for the
intended purpose but they will work. More items will be
added later, but at least this is a start.
Water is always
a problem in emergency preparations where portability is an
issue. Water is heavy! A lot of water cannot be
carried. Water has real storage problems if kept in the
trunk of a vehicle, bouncing around, heated and frozen, and
left undisputed for months or years at a time. That means
making whatever water is found potable - safe to drink.
A common nylon
coffer filter will remove debris such as sticks and leaves
from groundwater, but are bulky to pack.
|A funnel can
be cut from a piece of plastic, stored compact and flat,
and rolled up when needed.
||The ankle and
foot of a nylon stocking makes a good filter for smaller
debris. It is put into the funnel for scooping up
water for the storage bottles.
are the assembled pieces for a portable filter system -
including recycled bottles.
You will need
to click on the photos above to enlarge them. The right
hand photo shows the assembled pieces if the coffee filter and
funnel are not used - or they can be used in conjunction with
the pre-filters. The nylon stocking is put inside the
large bottle, folded over the top to hold it open, and water
can be poured into the filter. This is a common drinking
water bottle sold cheaply in grocery stores, but the push-pull
cap from a dishwashing detergent bottle has replaced the
normal cheap cap. In use, water is poured through the
nylon stocking and accumulates in the large bottle. That
bottle is then placed over the tall, thin bottle with
the black cap. The push-pull cap on the filter bottle
means one person can hold both bottles and pull down the white
cap so filtered water will flow into the tall, thin bottle
with the black cap.
Why tall, thin
bottles? Well, they store easily. All of the
components shown in the photo at right above will fit into the
larger bottle and make for very compact storage. Most
important, surface water will need to be treated so any
cloudiness is precipitated out and also treated and purified.
thin bottle aids precipitation. If the water is
cloudy from fine particles of dirt or silt, a large pinch
of Alum will greatly speed precipitation. Every
water treatment plant for cities along the Mississippi
River buys alum by the ton! It takes a few minutes
for suspended particles to precipitate to the bottom of
the bottle, but using clear plastic bottles means you can
observe the process and know when it is complete.
The next step
is using iodine to kill anything in the water. I use 7%
iodine, available at feed and seed stores, as it is twice the
concentration of drug store iodine. 7% iodine is sold in
large bottles, though, so I transfer it to small eyewash
bottles that are designed to dispense drops, and label the
bottle appropriately. A drop of iodine is sufficient to
purify the water, which takes 20 to 30 minutes.
the thin sedimentation bottle is poured into a canteen and
allowed to sit for a half hour while the iodine purifies
a sack I sewed from part of an old Levi pant leg. All of
the parts and pieces for the cheap, ersatz water treatment
kit fit inside, safe and sound, and weigh less than a
an inexpensive East-Bloc canteen purchased from
Sportsmansguide.com. Yes, it is aluminum, but it is
sturdy and intended to be stored empty until needed.
A good canteen can save your life; making an emergency run
to safety WITH water is for more important that being
squeamish about aluminum contamination while drying of
PROTECTION FROM INSECTS
There are no window
screens out in the wild.
It's you versus the bugs and
you don't want them to win. If you have to be out
there with the bugs you already have enough troubles
without things wanting to nibble on you. There are a
variety of insect repellents in highly compact and
portable containers, like the Coleman and Repel units
shown at right. The Coleman is also available in
Deet-free for those who prefer that formulation.
There is no much repellent in these small bottles, but
there is enough and the idea is to have it available when
needed rather than having a much more cost-effective large
bottle at home.
Insect protection in an
If you find a
cave or make a shelter such as a wattle or dugout or even a
temporary tarp tent, it is an absolute certainty it will
contain fleas, ticks, spiders, snakes and of course
mosquitoes. There is one certain way to kill anything
that breathes in an enclosed space: remove the oxygen
and poison the air. Burning sulfur will produce fumes
that absolutely kill anything breathing those fumes. But
sulfur also produces a visible cloud and smells horrible, and
attracting attention is not what you want in a bug-out
situation, to say nothing about the risk of a fire on
flammable debris in what you hoped would be a safe place!
Carbide will do the trick, producing acetylene gas which
displaces the oxygen.
I do not know
of any sulfur candles currently available in the US, but David
A. Cushman, who used to make them, put directions for making
sulfur candles on
of carbide pellets are legion. Carbide pellets in one pound
cans are often available at hardware or feed stores. The
reason they carry carbide is for killing moles and gophers.
Carbide pellets must be stored ABSOLUTELY DRY, with no
possible way for the pellets to get wet or even absorb
humidity. In the photo above right you will see I have used a
small, sturdy prescription bottle for a good supply of carbide
pellets, and on top of the prescription bottle is a smaller
clear plastic bottle with an air-tight lid. The smallest
bottle holds enough carbide pellets to fumigate a couple of
NOTICE ALL THE
PRECAUTIONS! When oxygen is displaced EVERYTHING that
breathes will die. So you cannot occupy the shelter
until it has been thoroughly ventilated to remove the sulfur
fumes or the acetylene gas from carbide.
To use either a
sulfur candle or carbide pellets, the structure/shelter/cave
must be sealed as well as possible while being fumigated. Even
plastic sheeting draped over the entrance will work to keep
drafts from dissipating the gas until the bugs are killed.
It is best to not have any gear in the area being treated
until it is ventilated as it would smell like sulfur or
acetylene gas. Not pleasant. After an hour or so
of being sealed, open the entrance and fan or wave something
to move air into the structure to ventilate out all the gas
fumes. Then wait another hour before moving in, just to
candles produce a noxious aroma and a visible gas. Both
attract attention when it is least needed. And there is
the fire hazard from hot burning sulfur if there is dry
debris in the structure - and there will be.
IS EXPLOSIVE! You do not want to have flame of any type
near acetylene gas. No smoking outside the entrance of a
cave while fumigating! No campfires, nothing at all
until the fumes are dissipated by making air move pass through
the area being fumigated.