THE
SUSTAINABLE FOOD ECONOMY
Since the 1700's, the world's main
food crops have been potatoes, cabbage, corn and rice.
Potatoes and cabbage fueled the Industrial Revolution. Of
the five major food crops, potatoes and cabbage far
exceed the others on a per-yield basis per acre. And as
important sources of storable protein, vitamins and
minerals, potatoes and cabbage easily out-distance the
others. Those countries which had the soils and climate -
and the attitude - to grow potatoes and cabbage as
"fuels" for their populace also had the inventiveness and
cleverness to use tools.
The
Secret Garden
This booklet develops
the concept that gardening in the new Millennium
may be very different, and presents plans on
survival gardening, maximum yield of edibles per
area, how to make a "French Intensive" garden as
well as an all-year vegetable garden. Order here.
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Those experts who place the rise of
modern society solely upon the use of tools are only half
right. The other half of the equation was that they also
recognized and cultivated the proper food "fuel." England
utilized potatoes for food and grains for highly
nutritious ale. Germany utilized cabbage (for kraut) and
potatoes as food fuels, and hops and grains for
nutritious, storable beer. Russia, somewhat belatedly,
brought in millions of Germans to help them produce both
potatoes and cabbage to feed their masses, turning the
Odessa and Ukraine regions into breadbaskets. North
America came to the fore by utilizing all of the food
crops, storing massive quantities of same, and utilizing
massive acreage of corn and wheat to increase the riches
of all of the people.
Some types of "fuel" foods can be
grown very easily. Potatoes, for example, can be
grown on almost any surface, even concrete or
asphalt. Old hay in a layer about 6" deep can be
spread on the ground in shape, such as 3 foot wide strips
(the width of two bales). Potato eyes can then be
placed every 1 1/2 feet in two rows down the strip of
hay, then covered by about 3" of old hay. When the
sprouts are fully leafed out and green, another layer of
hay can be laid on top, and that will form another bunch
of spuds! Kept watered, the potatoes will
grow perfectly even on hardpan or concrete, and be easy
to harvest. Even on city lots, several rows of
potatoes grown in a back yard will be sufficient to help
considerably with self sufficiency.
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Some types of "fuel" foods can
be grown very easily. Potatoes, for
example, can be grown on almost any surface, even
concrete or asphalt. Old hay in a layer
about 6" deep can be spread on the ground in any
shape, such as 3 foot wide strips (the width of
two bales). This photo was taken 3 weeks
after planting, or you would not have been able
to see the hay because of all the potato
leaves.
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At left is the potato row
photographed 5 weeks after planting. No hay
is visible - the potatoes appear to be growing
right out of the lawn. Potatoes can be grown on
hardpan on a layer of old hay! Harvest is
easy, as the tubers just pull cleanly out of the
hay. The remaining hay can be added to a
compost pile, restoring a lawn sans grass, or
left in place and a winter crop such as 75 day
cabbage planted for a continuous "fuel food"
crop. It takes only 8 heads of cabbage and
a quart of salt to make 4 gallons of kraut.
Two buckets of kraut can keep a family alive for
months!
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"Hay bale" gardening can be done by
those too weak or physically impaired to dig the
soil...just mow the grass close to the ground and lay
down some hay. Need to grow some crops other than
tubers? Place hay bales on edge, use a hatchet to
chop out a small hole, put some potting soil in the hole,
and put in transplants or just plant seeds. Cole
crops do very well with hay bale gardening. The hay
decomposes into very rich compost, improving the soil
underneath if it is tilled in when fully
decomposed. Just remember to remove the twine from
the remains of the hay bales before using a
rototiller!
Grass from a lawn can be used instead
of hay - under certain circumstances only. The lawn
must not have been treated with a systemic "weed and
feed" fertilizer, of course. The grass should also
be allowed to age for several weeks before use, or the
heat from using it as "sheet compost" can kill the
plants. Used correctly, anybody can grow potatoes
with hay or cut grass, almost anywhere, with very little
work involved. Potatoes store very easily for a
long time, so there is no reason for anyone to go
hungry! I actually get better results from grass
clippings than with old hay.
Those countries or continents which
could not comprehend the concepts of tools and bulk food
fuels did not advance beyond subsistence levels, and have
increased in population only because of importation of
food fuels from the more advanced countries. They still
don't get the concepts, and probably never will, their
very survival depending upon the largess of those with
excess to share.
The use and development of the
honeybee parallels the use of "fuel" foods. Recognizing
the importance of honey, beeswax, and free pollination
services, the emerging industrial nations "tamed" the
wild bee. An American named Langstroth discovered "bee
space" and designed the modern hive in 1850. Shortly
thereafter, Hoffman, Mehring, and von Hruschka, made
possible the economical extraction of honey.
Now the great industrial powers are
failing, having forgotten their roots: they neither till
the soil nor produce durable goods. Flipping burgers and
shuffling paper do produce a "service economy," but not a
sustainable economy, as nothing of real value is
produced! A "service economy" does nothing but consume
the products of an earlier era, slowly depreciating the
assets of the nation until nothing of value is left.
As tillers of the soil we can produce
our own food crops, raise our own honeybees, and keep
alive the dream of a productive society. Future
generations can build upon what we do, the concepts we
keep alive, as a basis for a continued future.
ANOTHER
VIEW OF CABBAGE, from New England Gardener
Cabbage is a very important crop, with
high yields of food. It can be eaten raw as Cole Slaw,
boiled alone or with carrots, potatoes and ham, stir
fried for a nutty flavor, or fermented into sour kraut.
It also keeps for months in a root cellar, or it may be
canned or dried for indefinite storage. The Fall or
Winter varieties are the best keepers.
In the South, or coastal areas, you
maybe able to grow cabbage over the Winter. Here where I
live, we have to start Spring cabbage and broccoli
inside, and set out the plants. The Winter keeping
varieties are the important ones, and here is how we
start ours in the early Summer. We add manure or
fertilizer and deeply work the soil with a single tine,
only under the row itself. Then we wet the row
thoroughly, and plant the seed shallowly.
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We try to space the seeds out,
but it is easy to move the plants later, just
before a rain. Then we cover the row
with strips of cloth, as from old bed sheets, and
weigh that down with rocks. The cabbage will be
up as strong plants in only three days, and you
remove the cloth. Once the plants are a few
inches tall, it's time to move any that are too
close together. If you don't have a thorough rain
right after you transplant, water them very well
daily for three days. |
To save seed, you dig up the entire
mature plant, and move it to a small bed, for it's second
year of growth, when the seed will develop. Mulch it over
the winter to protect it. You can also dig and store the
ENTIRE plant, in the root cellar. Some knowledgeable
homesteaders claim cabbage keeps best hung upside down
with the roots on it, so you can select from the heads
which kept the longest this way. I have done that, and it
works well, but it also keeps well on the shelf in our
root cellar.
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